Valdes Peninsula is one of the largest
marine wildlife reserves in the world, and a true paradise for marine wildlife
lovers. Declared a natural heritage by the United Nations, it has an unsurpassed
variety of marine wildlife species. A delightful visual feast of penguins, elephant
seals, whales, sea lions and orcas (killer whales) can be enjoyed in the peninsula
area. Prepare to experience a super close-up and unique encounter with some of
the most amazing marine animals, in their natural habitat of Valdes Peninsula
Reserve.
Valdes Peninsula is like an island united to the
continent by a 22 miles (35 kilometers) long strip of land called Carlos Ameghino
Isthmus. After 48 miles (77 kilometers) we do our first stop at a small interpretation
center in the Carlos Ameghino Isthmus, from where you can see San Jose Gulf and
Nuevo Gulf. On the top floor of this Interpretation Center you will find a set
of potent binoculars from where you will be able to see in detail both gulfs and
the Isla de los Pajaros (Bird’s Island). The distance between both gulfs is only
4 miles (7 kilometers) at the narrowest part of the Isthmus.
We continue
our journey and 15 miles (25 kilometers) later we arrive to the tourist village
of Puerto Piramides (Pyramids Port). We will enjoy a 1 hour and a half navigation
that departs from Puerto Piramides port. This special navigation will give us
the opportunity to enjoy close-up views of sea lion colonies and to visit caves
rich in marine fauna fossils. We will then return back to port
We continue
our journey heading to the southeast eastern point of the peninsula: Punta Delgada
(Delgada Point). The entire road after Puerto Piramides is an unpaved gravel road.
After 50 miles (79 kilometers) we reach Punta Delgada, where Punta Delgada lighthouse
is located. This lighthouse is a navy base since 1905.
It is in Punta
Delgada where three different beaches spread over a 4 mile (6.4 kilometer) coastal
line gathering one of the largest concentrations of Southern Elephant Seals, a
major attraction for researchers and travelers.
Peninsula Valdes offers
the chance to watch Southern Elephant Seals without having to travel to remote
islands, since this is the only continental territory in the world where this
species is found.
One of the characteristics of these species
that most impresses travelers is their large size and enormous weight. Males reach
up to 15 feet (5 meters) long and weigh up to 4 tons while females can be 10 feet
(3 meters) long and weight up to 1 ton. You definitely do not want one of these
males steeping on your toes!
Males have a proboscis or inflatable snout that
makes them look like land elephants, which has been the reason of their name.
Though there is a stable colony in Valdes Peninsula all year round, about 40,000
Southern Elephant Seals arrive to the Peninsula from August to March for reproduction
and to shed their skin. They are polygamists and form large harems of more than
10 females. They can spend three months at sea, diving day and night for fish.
They head for the beaches when it's time to shed their skin or for breeding season.
An outlook located near a cliff will give us the chance of enjoying a panoramic
look at the elephant seals colony.
The Southern
Elephant Seal has a sub Antarctic distribution it's population is estimated to
be around 700,000, of which 20,000 arrive between August and March to breed and
change their skin in Valdes Peninsula. They are located all along the external
coast of Valdes Peninsula.
Southern Elephant
Seals, when not fighting for their harems, spend most of their time lying in the
sun. As we stroll down the beach you will be able to hear the loud roars of the
male elephant seals which are used as a warning signal to other male elephant
seals that are getting too close to their harem. If the intruder ignores the warning
and comes even closer to the harem, the 2 elephant seals will eventually end up
fighting one another in a contest for sexual domination.
Elephant Seals
can be seen throughout the year, especially between August and March, when they
are in higher numbers than in the other months. It is possible to go down a cliff
in Caleta Valdes by a stair, from which the Elephant Seals and the geological
formations of the cove’s spit can be seen.
We then head to Punta Norte
to admire a big reserve of Sea Lions.
These magnificent pinnipeds move on
land using both their front and back limbs. The males are dark grey and they have
a mane. They attain a length of 7 feet (2.3 meters) and the females 5.5 feet (1.80
meters). The males weigh 789 pounds (359 kilograms) while the females weight 220
pounds (100 kilograms). The pups are born at the end of December or beginning
of January; they are black and they bleat like a sheep.
Up to the middle of
the twentieth century concessions were granted by the Argentine Government for
the killing and commerce of sea lions, mainly for the leather and oil of their
grease coat. Large-scale exploitation of sea lions took place until 1953, year
of the last record. Nevertheless, the killing continued in the zone until 1960,
and even on a clandestine way up to the '70s. Later legislation for the conservation
of the marine mammals prevented further commercial killings.
Depending
on weather conditions, orcas or killer whales can be seen from October to November
and from February to April, when they feed on young elephant seals.
Orcas are mammals that belong to the family of cetaceans, but unlike the whales
they have teeth. They can be seen in Valdes Peninsula from February to April in
Punta Norte Region and from October to November in Caleta Valdes and Punta Delgada
region. The orca is predominantly black, except for its white abdomen and a back
fin with a white spot behind it which scientist use for its identification.
Orcas are the greatest predator of the seas. They eat several fish species, sea
lions, sea tortoises, elephant seals, sharks and penguins. The Orcas of Valdes
Peninsula are specially well known for their unique strategy of intentionally
stranding on gravel beaches to capture Sea Lions and Elephant Seals calves. The
orcas of Patagonia are the only orcas in the world that use this dangerous hunting
method in which they swim very quickly onto the beach, leaving two thirds of their
body out of the water. They then grab an elephant seal or sea lion with their
mouth and jump back into the water with energetic dorsal movements. Finally, they
share their hunt with the other members of their group. It is known that hundreds
of killer whales die each year during this hunting act, as they expose themselves
to dehydration if they are unable to move back into the water after making a kill.
Specialized emergency help units must be used to rescue these animals quickly.
Big males can weight more than 8 tons, be 29 feet long (9.5 meters)
and their dorsal fin can be up to 6 feet (2 meters) high. Females weight 5 tons
and are 18 feet (6 meters) long. Females’ life expectancy is 50 years while life
expectancy for the male is only 30 years. When held in captivity average life
expectancy is significantly reduced (5 to 10 years).
You will also see
in the Valdes Peninsula many prairie and bird species such as guanacos (American
Llama), rheas, hairy armadillos, hares, grey foxes, ostriches, and oyster catcher.
After a long journey we start our return back to Puerto Madryn.
Difficulty:
low.
Duration: About 10 hours. The whole tour is 250 miles (400 kilometers)
long. Only 63 miles (100 kilometers) are done on paved road, the rest is done
on unpaved roads (gravel roads).
Guide: shared English/Spanish speaking
guide
Transfer: shared vehicle.
Includes: transfers + entrance
fee to Valdes Peninsula Reserve.